3D Printing

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3D Printing Resource Page - Bennington College

We took apart/ a 3d printer of makerbot ( the replicator ) this was to learn the innards, and mechanics and to understand how to think of a 3d printer, as guy says, " not as a 3d printer " but as a bunch of parts.
The robot is a 3 axis machine. Stepper motors move belts, which move bearings on smooth rods.
The extruder makes it a 3D printer. The extruder is a stepper motor with a knurled wheel. The filament is gripped by the wheel by pressure applied from a spring-loaded bearing. The filament is pushed into a heating chamber, and then out a nozzle. This practice breaks down the process into manageable understanding of how to replace /upgrade parts.
with this understanding and practice, the firmware and software need to be in an understanding of " what we have done " If in fact the 3d printer is still "open source" we have learned already that some Companies of the 3d printers are starting to claim patents to close down on how you can change up your printer. In other words if the thing does not work right , you have to send back the parts and are at the mercy of that company. All of which was not the practice of the founder " Rep Rap " and his understanding of how the flower blooms and pollinates and forms nectar. Open source allows for the overall growth of this world supporting the overall productivity outside of a companies boundaries.

We are next updating the firmware on the replicator and also will be searching for a better firmware ..possibly sailfish as the firmware to see if it speaks to repetier / which is the software in which maker-Bot uses?


Using The Makerbot Replicator Dual

===Replicator Specs:===

Filament - 1.75mm PLA, ABS, Dissolvable HIPS,
Extruders - 2 Direct Feed Extruders (Extruder 0, or default, is on the right when facing the machine)
Nozzle Diameter - 0.4mm
Build Volume - Theoretical : 8.9" x, 5.9" Y, 5.9" Z Practical - 7" X, 5.5" Y, 5.5" Z
Electronics - Makerbot MightyBoard Rev E
Firmware - Makerbot Firmware
Software - Makerware
Upgrades and Changes from stock - 1. Added cooling fans 2. Added Glass Build Plate 3: Z homing clip to account for glass thickness. 4. Custom printed extruder bodies 5. Wall mounted spooling.

How to Change Material:

How to create gcode file for Makerbot Replicator Dual

Is your model ready? To 3D print you need a watertight stl. If you made your model in Rhino and your object is a closed valid polysurface you can select your object and go to File/ Export Selected. Choose STL as the file type. Make your mesh tolerance to 0.01 mm or 0.001 inches and then choose Binary as the file structure. Leave the Export Open Objects check box unchecked, that way if your mesh is not closed for some reason, Rhino will warn you. :) You can always Run the Mesh command from within Rhino and then check your mesh to be good. In Rhino, select your mesh/polygon model and run the command MeshRepair. Run the check mesh and rhino will report any issues and you can use the automated wizard to repair the stl. This can work in most cases. If you have multiple meshes, your object has mesh patches, you will need to join and weld those meshes. Use command help in Rhino and read the Weld command help documentation, it's very informative! Afterward check and repair your mesh. Another option is to use the online mesh repair tool at [1]. It use to be dead easy, but now you need to create an account with microsoft first :(, they must have bought Netfabb.

Makerware (G-code/Slicer for Makerbot)

1- open makerware
2- select for printer you are using ( replicator dual )
3- upload STL file
4- scale and position the object. remember that it should contact z axis and fit on print base.
( note, that your object may come in as inches so select inches to mm )
5- settings/ choose basic settings.
6- save settings
7- print

Settings for a Quick Part

Shells: 2
Layer Thickness:0.27
Infill: 10%

Settings for a Standard Part

Shells: 2
Layer Thickness:0.20
Infill: 25%

Settings for a string functional part

Shells: 3
Layer Thickness:0.20 - 0.30
Infill: 35-50%

Settings for a string high resolution part

Shells: 2
Layer Thickness:0.15
Infill: 20%

How to start a print on the Replicator Dual

How to remove a print from the Replicator Dual

Using the Ultimaker2

===Ultimaker Specs:===

Filament - 1.75mm PLA
Extruders - 1 Direct Feed Extruders
Nozzle Diameter - 0.4mm
Build Volume - Theoretical : Practical -
Electronics - E
Firmware -
Software - Cura
Upgrades and Changes from stock -

How to Change Material:

How to create gcode file for Ultimaker2

Is your model ready? To 3D print you need a watertight stl. In Rhino, select your mesh/polygon model and run the command MeshRepair. Run the check mesh and rhino will report any issues and you can use the automated wizard to repair the stl. This can work in most cases. If you have multiple

Cura (G-Code/Slicer for Ultimaker)
1- open Cura
2- upload STL file
3- Scale and position object using icons on bottom (make sure file in mm)
4- Set/check parameters on basic and advanced tabs

Basic
-Layer height .1-.2mm
-Print speed 35-40mm/sec
-Fill Density 10-50% (35% strong, 50% practically solid)
-Brim to avoid warping and curling (Brim line amount of 3 is sufficient, found under expert settings)
Advanced
-Nozzle size .4mm
-Initial layer .3mm
-Bottom layer speed 15mm/sec (slower on 1st layer to stick to bed)

5- Select Expert > Open Expert Settings and adjust parameters

(Previous 2 steps can be covered by > File > Open Profile > Documents > Cura Profiles > Standard_slow)

6- Check layers using View Mode icon in upper right to select Layers
7- Save as .gcode and transfer to SD card
8- Insert SD Card into Ultimaker
9- Select Material > PLA on Ultimaker menu
10-Print (Print button > File Name)

Settings for a Quick Part

Settings for a Standard Part

Settings for a string functional part

Settings for a string high resolution part

How to start a print on the Ultimaker2

How to remove a print from the Ultimaker2

Using the Form 1

===Form 1 Specs:===

Build Volume - Theoretical : Practical -
Electronics - E
Firmware -
Software - Cura
Upgrades and Changes from stock -

How to create gcode file for Form 1

Is your model ready? To 3D print you need a watertight stl. In Rhino, select your mesh/polygon model and run the command MeshRepair. Run the check mesh and rhino will report any issues and you can use the automated wizard to repair the stl. This can work in most cases. Make sure there is a 3mm drain hole. If you have multiple

PreForm (G-Code/Slicer for Form 1)
1- open PreForm
2- upload STL file
3-
4-
5-
6-
7-

Settings for a Quick Part

Settings for a Standard Part

Settings for a string functional part

How to start a print on the Replicator Dual

How to remove a print from the Replicator Dual

Troubleshooting

Question

Cause
Solution
.


1. My part isn't sticking to the bed?


2. Material is oozing, blobby, or stringing?


3. Nothing is extruding?


4.Extruding is spotty or inconsistent?


5. My file is on the SD card but i Can't see it in the list?


6. The print suddenly shifted and of or wonky?


7. It was going great then it just looks like a mess?


8. The print preview looks weird, there must be a problem with my file. What do I do?